Support

First of all, we are sorry to hear you have trouble with your QU-AX product.

In case of a warranty / guarantee claim, please always first contact your dealer, where you bought the product. The dealer is your contact person in terms of warranty and guarantee. He can check the product and, in case he cannot fix the issue by himself, contact us or send us the product. No matter if you bought it online or at the dealer next door. If the dealer is not near your home, please try to contact him by phone or mail first.

To assign a claim correctly, we need to get it back through the trader who bought it from us. We will then take care immediately of the matter.

Please also keep your buying proof ready, and in case your dealer is not near, please send him photos / a video of the issue.

Thank you for your cooperation.

First try and get started with your regional shop and build up a local recognition. Getting sponsored by a shop can sometimes lead to a local rep sponsorship. A local dealer will have the connections to help you get sponsorship if you are good enough. It also helps if you have a resume of contest results, other possible sponsors and a video of your riding to send to the distributor in your country. You can find all our distributors on the distributors page here on our website.

No, the rubber bumper is fixed very well – but the Pogos should, as described in the assembly instruction, only be used on tarmac or similar solid ground. When used on smooth ground or soil, the bumper can sink in – and get pulled of the pogo when jumping out again. We did not fix it more permanently to make it interchangeable in case of wear. Find the spare bumper here.

That would be like if you would buy your child a pair of shoes 2 sizes to big or skis. It will not make fun! The spring is just to hard – your child will not be able to jump with it.

No, the Pogo-Sticks also have different lengths, adapted to the size of typical users. (Size between footrests and grips)

As already explained a little bit lower on this page, the wheel diameter only has something to do with body-size on the 12″, 16″ and 18″ – made for small children. From 20″ upwards, it has to do with the field of use and the transmission ratio (distance/revolution).

The most popular wheel size for beginners is 20″

The Luxus unicycle comes with a second, 200 mm seatpost out of the box – so that when a small rider needs a short seatpost in the beginning (to insert it to a max in the frame), you do not need to buy a longer one later. The OnlyOne and Luxus unicycles are made for up to 75 kgs (around 165 lbs) when used “normally”.
This means also adults can use these unicycles to begin and to try, for much heavier riders – or when trying tricks or even playing hockey later, we strongly recommend a unicycle with a strong connection like the Munis or Profis. These have a stronger axle with much more surface: 10 splines on ISIS-axles and much more fine splines (and therewith surface) on the Q-Axle axles. On a Luxus or OnlyOne, only two surfaces of the square taper axle bear the whole power you put into the pedal. ISIS and Q-Axles withstand hardest abuse – and also a 120 kg rider. Only make sure all Elements are strongly tightened and right pedal and crank are really on the right side (saddle facing forwards) to prevent them from riding themselves loose.

By the way, we also have extra long 700 mm seatposts for tall riders – and you can also shorten these 🙂

Sometimes, when trying to assemble the 350 mm one, it might seem it does not fit the bolts coming out of the seatbase. But in most cases, those are just stuck in the saddle-base from having been fixed. By gently hammering them, they have a little play and you will easily be able to put the 350mm seatpost on the base.

On Luxus unicycles, there is a second, 200 mm seatpost in the box – use that, shorter one. Normally this one is assembled to the saddle out of the box. You can also shorten the seatpost with a common metal-saw. Make sure to file the ridge afterwards so that the post slides in the frame easily. Of course, seatposts are only available in different sizes for spare: in 200, 400 and 700 mm length.

In unicycling, the wheel-size is rather about what you want to do with the unicycle than with your overall-height. Typically, the 20″ unicycle is the classical learners-unicycle. With a voluminous 20″ or 19″ tire, it is a Trials-unicycle made for Muni, Trial or Street-unicycling. If 20″ is too big, there are also 16″ and 18″ unicycles. The 12″ unicycle is for very talented kids – or bigger ones who want to have fun. 24“ Unicycles are popular for basketball or for many IUF-disciplines. Off-terrain, 24″ unicycles with wide 3,0″ tires are made for downhill. 26“ unicycles are for longer distances or for competition when used with a thin race-tire. The 27,5“ Unicycles with a Mountain-Tire or even Plus-sized tire are universal Mountain-unicycles for municycling but also for downhill or Enduro. 29“ and 36“ unicycles are for long-distance.

To define wether you are tall enough for a unicycle, you have to measure your inseam-height. You cannot tell by total body-height overall because people have different ratios between arms and legs. One has shorter legs, the other has longer upper bodies.

To measure the inseam-height, measure from the ground up to your crotch (barefeet). The best way to measure it is to stand with the back to a wall, then put a ruler up to your crotch, maybe mark that point and measure this height. Find the minimum inseam-heights in the unicycle-descriptions and a general hint here.

The OnlyOne unicycles have been designed so that they match our perception of quality, durability and design. The QU-AX Luxus unicycles are improved for higher needs in the following points:

• a much more comfortable saddle with an integrated handle. Whilst the OnlyOne has just a foamed PU-saddle, the Luxus saddle is much more comfortable – for more great riding time
• The Luxus has (except a 24″ and 26″) a flatcrown frame to put the feet on when riding tricks
• The Luxus has a wider tire (1,95″ instead of 1,75″
• The Luxus in 12″, 16″, 18″ has an ergonomic child saddle and ergonomic child pedals
• The Luxus includes a second, short seatpost, this way, no need to shorten the seatpost with a saw

The clear answer is “it depends”. To learn or for simple riding you can say that OnlyOne and Luxus unicycles (both have square taper axle) are typically made for riders up to 75 kgs. For heavy riders, but also if you want to make hard tricks or play hockey, basketball or ride offroad or want to ride ride, or do jumps choose a unicycle with a multi-spline axle like ISIS or Q-Axle. This type of axle grants a safe connection between crank and axle that resits a lot more than a square taper axle.

The clearance of the frame will make this impossible. Also, a wider tire needs a wider rim. The Luxus frame crown has a small tire-clearance to make tricks possible where you have your feet on the frame-crown. Also, the axles of Luxus and OnlyOne are not made for hard offroad riding – only for regular riding.

It’s a bit complicated with the Tire-sizes of the unicycle. Same for bicycles – since mostly, their tires are used.

Tire sizes are mostly defined in Inches and with the Metric-system (ISO / ETRTO-size). A 20″x1,95″ tire has got an inner tire-diameter of 20″ (406 mm). It is specified with a width of 1,95″ (47 mm). Allthough this varies a lot according to maker and rim on which the tire is mounted on.

Here’s an overview with inch/ETRTO diameters:

12 1/2″: 203 mm
16″: 305 mm
18″: 355 mm
19″: 387 mm
20″: 406 mm
24″: 507 mm
26″: 559 mm
27,5″: 584 mm
28″ / 29″: 622 mm
36″: 787 mm

Besides these, today most popular sizes, there is still an “old” inch system, not writing the values after the comma in numbers but fractured like 12 1/2″ for example. Unfortunately, it is not as you might think the same like 12,5″. The only thing you need to remember here is the Brown’s Law of tire sizing:

If two tires are marked with sizes that are mathematically equal,
but one is expressed as a decimal and the other as a fraction,
these two tires will not be interchangeable.

(see also on sheldonbrown’s website: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tyre-sizing.html)

In unicycling we get mostly asked for 19″ and 20″ – and the difference between them. That’s why we would like to tell a little bit more about wheel-sizing here:

20″ – ETRTO size 406 mm describes the diameter of the rim. 406 mm (20″) is also typical on children bicycles and on QU-AX Luxus and Profi 20″ for example. The QU-AX Muni Starter is also a real 20″ with an ETRTO-size of 406 mm.

Another size often called 20″ – is the 19″ size. Its ETRTO size is 387 mm. This size comes out of the bicycle-trial. There, wide and voluminous tires (at least 2,5″ or 67 mm wide) are wanted for rebound when jumping and for rim-protection upon impact.

The reason why they often call 19″ a 20″ tire is because in the US, the wheels are often defines through the overall-size, including tire. That’s why they sometimes call a wheel with a wide and fat 19″ tire a 20″ wheel. So our Muni Starter with the fat 20″ tire would then be called a 21″ – at least theoretically.

As already the different ETRO sizes might make you guess: 19″ and 20″ are not compatible with each other since they simply have a different size. So the best tip for you is to look after the ETRTO-size, this way you are sure to find a precise size.

It’s nearly the same for 29″. If you look at the ETRTO-size (622 mm), it is a 28″ wheel (622 mm ETRTO). But especially “fat” 28″ wheels like Muni-wheels (or on Mountainbikes called “Twentyniners”). 29″. Since the exterior diameter is rather a 29″ – allthough that is not on official size.

As already mentioned in the beginning, it’s a bit complicated with wheel sizes. More unicycle relevant examples:

Because a 24″ with fat tire (like on a 24″ Muni) is not called a 25″.
On Race unicycles, the IUF allows a 24″ unicycle for most competitions – but defines it with the exterior diameter (618mm) so with tire. In the beginning of unicycle-races the unicycles still had quite right 1,75 or 1,95 tires, that left quite lots of space between rim and limit. So one day, some racers tried to use a 26″ rim with a narrow racing-tire (lighter, less rolling resistance) – which still was within the regulation. So the rule says 24″ – but most race-unicycles, according the the rim size – are 26″ wheels.

Finally, there are three more criterias that are relevant on rims:

The spoke-holes – which have to be same as on the hub – the more, the more robust the wheel is, best around 36 holes – for extra-sturdy wheels even 48. On child unicycles less are okay, too (28 e.g.) since otherwise the wheel would have the spokes too near to each other.

The second one is the rim width. A wider rim is more solid – and is even needed for wider tires so that the tire does not “curve” to much.

And the third one is the rim-architecture: A double-walled rim is more sturdy than a single-walled rim.

We know that for many unicycle riders would prefer to have a system that works with all other axles from other makers. However, many years ago, we made the first unicycle axle with the ISIS-standard, too. We were the first equipping unicycles with this axle interface. To progress, you have to leave standards behind. Bicycles are different, but many components from there deliver parts for our sport. The ISIS standard is long past on bicycles, 24 mm axles have taken over. The 2 mm more in diameter make the axle more rigid and allows to drill more of the inside out – which makes those axles lighter – and at the same time more robust. The outer diameter has stayed the same – so that Q-Axle hubs are compatible with ISIS bearing cups. The cranks get positioned at exactly the same place every time again whilst on ISIS-axles a conic interface gets worn over time and the position of the cranks wanders. A crank-extractor is not necessary anymore neither. Be assured that we will enlarge they lengths and shape of available cranks.

See how easy it is in this video:

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We know that for many unicycle riders would prefer to have a system that works with all other axles from other makers. However, many years ago, we made the first unicycle axle with the ISIS-standard, too. We were the first equipping unicycles with this axle interface. To progress, you have to leave standards behind. Bicycles are different, but many components from there deliver parts for our sport. The ISIS standard is long past on bicycles, 24 mm axles have taken over. The 2 mm more in diameter make the axle more rigid and allows to drill more of the inside out – which makes those axles lighter – and at the same time more robust. The outer diameter has stayed the same – so that Q-Axle hubs are compatible with ISIS bearing cups. The cranks get positioned at exactly the same place every time again whilst on ISIS-axles a conic interface gets worn over time and the position of the cranks wanders. A crank-extractor is not necessary anymore neither. Be assured that we will enlarge they lengths and shape of available cranks.

Cracking or creacking noise can have a lot of reasons – best is to check step by step the following checklist:

• check if pedals and cranks are properly tightened. If one was not fully tightened, please check the connection (threads or axle) closely because they normally get damaged if they are ridden loose. Also check wether the right crank (there is an “r” on the inside of the crank, the pedal axle also has an “r” on the axle inside) is really on the right side of the unicycle (otherwise it loosens the pedals while riding)
• please check if the pedals have bearingplay on their axle
• please disassemble the frame from the bearing – feel the bearing turning with your fingers – does it turn properly? Is it fixed on the axle? (lateral play)
• are the spokes properly tightened

The crank-axle-connection is the part on the unicycle that gets the biggest load. Therefore, it is very important that it is firmly tightened – and that this is checked regularly.

If your crank keeps getting loose, it’s most likely been ridden loose – which will have damaged the crank – and maybe even the axle.

Check the taper or ISIS inside the crank – is it still square? Is the taper still square? If you did not ride this too long, or if you have a steel axle and a crank of a softer material you are maybe lucky and you just have to change the crank. If the axle is also damaged, you will have to change the hub/wheel.

Retightend the crank-bolts especially after the first ride after the first assembly! Check them regularly and especially when you feel something loose or shaking, stop riding!! and check it!

After the crank-axle-connection, the pedal/crank connection is the part on the unicycle that gets the biggest load. Therefore, it is very important that it is firmly tightened – and that this is checked regularly.

Further, since you mostly ride in one direction, it is important to make sure to have the right pedal and crank (marked on the pedal axle and inside the crank with an R) on the right side (saddle facing forwards) and the left pedal and crank (marked on the pedal axle and inside the crank with an L) on the left side.

This is because the threads have different directions for tightening: The right pedal is tightened clockwise, the left one counter-clockwise. This prevents them from getting loose by riding.

If your pedals keeps getting loose, it’s most likely been ridden loose – which will have damaged the crank – and the pedal thread.

Check the thread inside the crank and on the pedal – is it still ok? If you did not ride this too long, or if you have a robust crank thread, you are maybe lucky and you just have to change the pedal. If the crank is also damaged, you will have to change the cranks, too.

Retightend the pedals especially after the first ride after the first assembly! Check them regularly and especially when you feel something loose or shaking, stop riding!! and check it, tighten it before riding on.

Find the ultimate guide which bumpers fit to which saddle(s) on what unicycles here.

Maybe, yes! There are two ways of doing this. The one possibilty is to mount hydraulic rim-brakes (Magura). The other way are discbrakes on unicycles. With disc-brakes, it is most popular do buy the unicycle equipped with it right away since the hub has to have a disc-interface and so does the frame (to put the brake-caliper on). With Magura-brakes, the frame has to have Magura-sockets (like our #1700 Muni does for example). And of course the brake should have a brake-surface. On the current range, the following unicycles are equipped with Magura-sockets by default: Muni 19“ (#1700) (for little downhillers), 24“ (#1711), 27,5“ (#1712), 29“ (#1713) and Profi Marathon 36“ (1019). To add a Magura, you need #2210 (Magura shell), #2216 (Magura brake) as well as #2036 (brake-lever-mount).

We made a video of this one:

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You should be around 1,70 m – it depends on your inseam-length in the end. Then, you have to be a little bit handy when ascending, and if it is just for few centimeters, you can help by putting shorter cranks on.

In fact, it has two brakes: the one with the lever – and the one in your legs! We tested it with a front brake some time ago… but it is too dangerous for unexperienced rides since you can very easily crash forwards then.

You should ride it on tarmac or similar roads. It is NOT made for offroad-riding. It is also not made to ride steps or curbs. As it is not equipped with lighting-systems, you should not ride it on public roads.